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Ways to win free casino money via online

I am a fairly new Poker player and love the game. Live in NH and going toConnthis week to play. Like 7 card stud. Can anyone tell me is it better for a beginner to play at Foxwoods or the Sun???Also would appreciate any advice. Although I am over 65, still trying to learn.

Answer 1:

I assume you plan on playing low limit stud. Both casinos offer 1-3 and 1-5 spread limit. FW has more tables and usually more of these games going. But you will not have to wait long at either casino. If the list gets long both casinos will start another table. Both have non-smoking tables for 1-3 & 1-5. If this is your first time playing casino poker I suggest you let the floor person know and they will be happy to explain the betting structure and rules to you. If you are bringing someone with you who doesn’t play poker (wife, etc.) you might prefer FW. It’s a beautiful casino with many restaurants and shops.

Answer 2:

If you are going to be in CT *this* weekend, come on over to Foxwoods and join us forFARGO…..Foxwoods Annual Rec. Gambling Outing. We would love to meet you!  Just look for anyone with aFARGObadge and introduce yourself. Or look for me (just remember the 3 F’s – fair, fat, and fifty). I will be there from *late* Thursday until Monday morning. As for being “over 65 and still trying to learn”, well, you and Bill Alan should get along famously!

Answer 3:

You should know (both the asker and theFARGOfolks) that both Foxwoods and “The Sun” have cheap Hold Em tournaments on Saturday mornings at 10 and cheap Stud tournaments Sunday morning at 10. I always play at Mohegan Sun – it’s about 20 minutes closer and they have a better food court with shorter lines – allows me to easily take a break from the table and get some decent food without missing a third big blind.


Golden casino games and its advantges

The other night in a $5/10 Hold Em game, UTG straddled the blinds for $10. The player to the left made it $15, and then the next player made it $20. Upon seeing the $20 straddle, the player who had made it $15 said, “Oh no, wait a minute.” (or something to that effect) and pulled back his $15 straddle.  The player who made it $20 said,  ”Wait, you have to leave that out there.”- With which the dealer agreed. The $15 poster did not agree and the floor was brought in. After some heated discussion and poor behavior from various players, the decision was that the $15 must stay in play. The player reluctantly returned the $15 and the game continued. Those who felt that the $15 straddle must remain argued from the perspective that ACTION HAD BEEN TAKEN behind and, therefore, the $15 must be left in. The player contended that a straddle is an elective bet and that a player has the right to withdraw it due to that fact. He furthermore felt that since no cards had been dealt, then there could not have been any “action” behind. I spoke with the player afterward and we were left with several questions. I would appreciate any opinions, but would most appreciate an actual ruling from a card room manager, if possible.  Please include your credentials if you respond.

1)  Was the decision to leave the $15 in the pot correct?

2)  Could the player have removed his $15 and been dealt out of the hand without any further repercussion?

3)  If a player posts his big blind and then UTG straddles, can the big blind, upon seeing the straddle, decide to take back his post?  If so, why?

4)  Can the little blind take back his post after the big blind has entered the pot?

5)  Is there “action” before any cards are dealt out?  And, is the posting of blinds considered to be action?

Answer 1:

This is a good one. Let me start with. Every Casino has its own rules…. There is no action until the first card is dealt. Any of the players can remove their straddle or blind before the hand starts. If called to the table, that would be my ruling. I might also add that I am glad they are having a fun game, but let’s not get too out of hand (for the sake of the other player’s at the table).

Answer 2:

I’ll tell you all, once again, for the umpteenth time, that before anyone can answer a “what is the rule?” question, you must learn what the rule is in your local card room. The issues raised in this post are mostly “house rules” questions, which can only be resolved by interpretation of the house rules in the card room where it occurred. But getting on with the discussion: if i were to write a rulebook, and if i were running the card room where this occurred, i would concur with the floor’s decision. The decision to require the $15 straddle to stand is necessary, since there has been action (albeit not “significant action” as that phrase is usually defined) after the bet. And once there has been a $20 straddle, under no circumstances would the $15 straddle be permitted to take back his bet and sit out the hand. Moreover, in a room where straddles are permitted, under no circumstances would either of the blinds be permitted to take back their blinds.

 

Answer 3:

The player who tried to take his bet out is nuts, for several reasons. A straddle is a “blind” bet.  Once he put it in, and was straddled behind, it was action. Same for the big and small blind. If they have actually put their blinds in the pot, and so has anyone behind them, that is a bet. Often players are allowed as a courtesy to take back the small or big blind if they get a phone call or something, but a straddle is an active bet. This player trying to weasel out of his action is 100% out of line.


Basic information about casino games

Can anyone recommended some books to read, I would like the best books all around in each field of poker, example

7 card stud:
Texas Holed:
Odds:
Phycology:
Tells:  or any other fields of poker thank you very much

 

Answer 1:

Hold em  Best I’ve ever read is by Bob Ciaffone, who writes a regular column in Card Player.  I don’t have title handy, but if you call Gambler’s bookstore in Vegas, they’ll know.  It’s a new book, 98, with two kings on the cover. Also get Hold em Excellence by Lou Krieger and the follow-up book by the same author, and David Sklansky’s Hold em For Advanced Players, 2000 EDITION. On any form ofOmaha, TJ Cloutier’s 1999 book onOmahais the best, in my opinion.  Also get Ray Zee’s book on the 2 split games,Omahaeight or better and stud eight or better. Zee is fabulous on O eight or better. And for stud, get Roy West’s book and then read David Sklansky’s Stud for Advanced Players, year 2000 edition.

Answer 2:

Am I the only one who disagrees about this?  I think his section on Stud/8 or better is fabulous, but I don’t think there’s much for an advanced player to get out of theOmahasection.

Answer 3:

It depends on what an “advanced player” is. I play ALOT of O/8 and this book helped me tremendously. It’s not so much that I learned anything earth shattering, but I think it helped me plug a couple of leaks. It definitely made me a more patient (tight?) player. It helped me narrow my starting hands, and stopped me from chasing too far. The main concepts that I use every day are – Draw only to the nuts. (Many think they do but don’t…..) – Position is more important than most O/8 players think. This book coupled with The Theory of Poker has changed my game forever, and for the better I think.
Bottom line, a must read for any serious O/8 player!!

 


Tips and hints to play casino blackjack

I was playing $6-12 Holdem when I ran into this situation: Average table, two players that I know are very solid, a couple of passive calling stations, the rest are about my ability (middle level, medium tight) I am on the button with JdTd. UTG (Solid player) raises, entire table (8 handed) to me calls, I call. 1st Question – I am getting 14-1 odds on my extra $6. Is this sufficient to call with a drawing hand in middle position? Flop comes A K 5 rainbow. SB checks, I check, UTG bets, call, call, Raise (The other solid player), all call to me. At this point I am getting 14.5 – 1 odds on my $12 call, but figure I can count on a re-raise from UTG, and possibly a cap from the raiser. Since the players in between the solid players may drop (having to call two raises), as well as the players in between the second solid player and myself dropping. Right now I am placing the two solid players on one of three hands, AA, KK, or AK. 2nd Question – Assuming no one else will call but the two solid players, am I still getting correct pot odds to call? At the time I had figured them at about 13-1, still enough for a call. Re-raise by UTG, Cap by the original raiser, myself and two other players call. Turn is a blank, check around to the flop raiser, bet, all call, Original UTG raises, all call. At this point my figuring is almost done, I think there is enough in the pot to chase this all the way down. River is a Q and I am happy, much to the grumbling of the two solid players (UTG had AA, second raiser had AK) who wondered “How I could chase such bad cards”… Opinions on the play? All of them are welcome, it was hard for me to completely figure the draw odds, etc. during the play…

 

Answer 1:

I have no problem with the call before the flop. Matter of fact J-10 suited plays well into a multi-handed pot. After the flop however the situation changes drastically. If I understand correctly there is $96 (8 X $12) in the pot before the flop and you expect to have to call $18-$24 to see the turn. If you call $18 with two others now there would be $150 in the pot. $18 to win $150 is not sufficient especially since if you hit the hand one or both players could have redraws on you. If the A or K on the flop is a diamond you might have a few more outs but still probably not worth it. My general feeling is if it costs more than one bet to chase an inside straight draw (without over pair possibilities) don’t even think about it. My two cents.

Answer 2:

Well let me see if we can figure this properly….before the flop, 8 handed X$12 is a $96 pot.  You ask if you are correct to call the $24 (you say you are expecting a re-raise and a cap, so you are looking at $24). If you call the $24, and the two other players ONLY call, the pot is now $168, giving you only about 7-to-1 odds on your call. Clearly, it would seem to me this call is incorrect. Now I must confess I was at a late, late poker game last night and as I write this I am exhausted and somewhat unable to think…so if I have missed something here, hopefully someone will point this out to me.

 

Answer 3:

Well in that situation I have to say that I fold. If it’s getting to the river and I need a Queen, the only card in the deck to complete my straight when I am reading two solid players on the table as either AK or KK and there is an Ace and a King showing on the board I’m down at that point. The odds of pulling one of the 4 queens on the river seems too high for me, certainly too high to be staying in for the river card when as it happens you read the other guys right. As it happens on this occasion you pulled a queen, got the straight and won a big pot. When you say those guys grumbled I can understand why. on an inside straight situation, If I haven’t made it by the fourth card I bail because solid guys are only going to be in a hand this big with something decent and at least one of them either pairing or tripping off the A or K on the board. Right now you got nothing and fluked in with a queen at the end on low odds an scooped a big pot. When they said you were chasing bad cards, they were right.

 


On line casino card games

Does anyone know the odds or percentage of ending up with a flush when you start with 3 suited cards in 7 card stud? I have seen two different figures, one says the percentage is a little over 18 % and one says that it is a little under 23 %. I have been able to construct the formulas for both but I am not sure which is correct. If anyone knows and can show me the math I would greatly appreciate it.

Answer 1:

Showing the math theory is a little difficult.  However, the proper percentage is 18%. There are 211,876 possibilities, not knowing any other cards. This is easily computed as 49*48*47*46/24. The divider is the number of ways these four different cards can appear as far as
order. Of the 211,876, 38,235 will be flushes. However, the fourth card is important. If its suited, your flush potential grows to about 47%, if it isn’t, it drops to about 10%.

 

Answer 2:

Yes…three suited cards to start in seven-card stud can become a flush or straight flush 38,235 / 211,876 = 18.05% of the time — and, if you can see that none of six opponents has an up card of your suit, then that likelihood is increased to 27,930 / 123,410 = 22.63%…

Answer 3:

The “little over 18%” is quite a bit closer than “little under 23%”. Let’s assume

1) You have three cards, all in the same suit, and
2) you will play to the end, and

3) You pay no attention to any other exposed cards.  Let P(n more) represent the probability that you will get exactly n more cards of your suit among the next four cards you are dealt. Then the probability of getting your flush (or perhaps a straight flush) is

P(2 more) + P(3 more) + P(4 more)
(since these outcomes are mutually exclusive and include all the
possible ways you could make your flush).

P(2 more) = C(10,2)*C(39,2) / C(49,4) = 33,345 / 211,876  (note 1)
P(3 more) = C(10,3)*39 / C(49,4) = 4680 / 211,876
P(4 more) = C(10,4) / C(49,4) = 210 / 211,876

So the probability is 38,235/211,876 =~ 0.18046.

Note 1:  C (10,2) = (10*9)/(1*2) = 45 is the number of ways you can get two cards of your desired suit from the remaining 10 of that suit in the deck.  C (39,2) = (39*38)/(1*2) is the number of ways you can get the two non-suit cards.  C (49, 4) = 211,876 is the total number of 4-card combinations you might receive. Here is a table (generated by a Markov chain) that gives your chances of getting a flush as a function of the cards in your hand so far. (If the table is used for hold’em, then the cards “in your hand” also include the board cards.)  G and B represent the number of “good cards” and “bad cards” in your hand, where a “good card” is a card of the suit that you want.

G  B   prob of flush  odds against making flush
1  1     0.0093         107.1  to  1
2  0     0.0640          14.6  to  1
1  2     0.0023         427.0  to  1
2  1     0.0312          31.1  to  1
3  0     0.1805           4.5  to  1
2  2     0.0095         103.8  to  1
3  1     0.1058           8.5  to  1
4  0     0.4716           1.1  to  1
3  2     0.0416          23.0  to  1
4  1     0.3497           1.9  to  1
4  2     0.1957           4.1  to  1


Obtaining free casino money online

Typical loose-passive 3-6 game. I have 99 in middle position, 3 limpers after me, I limp. 6-way flop, 356 rainbow, BB bets out, two loose callers (probably have over cards), I raise, all fold but those 3. Turn K, all check to me, I bet, all call.  River an A. Yuck. BB bets out, all fold, and it’s on me. I’ve never played with this guy before, and I don’t think most people would bluff into 3 opponents, so I assume he has A6, but he was in the big blind… so I call. Of course he has A6. Lacking a better read on an opponent, does anyone think it’s wrong to just always call here? I see so many hopeless river bluffs in 3-6 (well, in 10-20 as well) that I tend to just always pay off when the pot is a fairly decent size, unless the board looks really scary.

Answer 1:

As you said, you didn’t know enough about this player. You’re also right about the amount of bluffing in this spot. Always calling on the river is never correct. However the pot on the river is fairly big, always calling HERE is probably correct.

Answer 2:

You ask if you should “always” call in this situation.  My answer is that the two words you should always never use in describing your playing habits are: “always” and “never”.  Do not become predictable.

Answer 3:

When one of many opponents comes out betting on the river while somebody else was betting the turn (or especially if somebody else was
betting all the way), a pair is usually no got for a call. We are talking a
minimum two-pair hand here. I usually fold. Please note this is a different situation than if somebody leads all the way, checks the river and then somebody else bets. There are few exceptions to this principle:

1. The pot is humongous. I’d probably call with bare AK.
2. You play with experts. But you wouldn’t come here for advice if this was the case, am I right?
3. You play with unpredictable idiots. But you wouldn’t leave the table to post your question if this was the case, am I right?


Interesting facts about europa casino card games

I haven’t played Hold ‘em for over a year and am thinking about getting into it again, but i have a question for the experts. I learned to play based on Lou Krieger’s and Lee Jone’s books. I looked at my statistics last night and saw that I won in both 1-4-8-8 and 4-8, but I averaged three times more winnings per hour at 1-4-8-8 than 4-8. Essentially,
the same players, same casino. I’m looking for comments on (1) why? and (2) what general strategy changes do I need to make to improve the 4-8 game?  Most of the Hold’ em I have an opportunity to play now has a fixed structure.

 

Answer 1:

 

Without more information on how you approach the games differently, this is tough to answer. The 1-4-8-8 games I have played in have a 1-2 blind structure while the 4-8 game has a 2-4 blind structure. Maybe your opponents are playing too loose in the spread limit with the smaller blinds and you are taking advantage of that.

Answer 2:

Possible reasons:

* Random variation. If your EV is 1 small bets per hour, and you play or 100 hours, your observed average could easily be 0.5 small bets per hour or 1.5 small bets per hour.

* There may be a few mega fish present in the 1-4-8-8 that don’t play 4-8.

* Your opponents may play too tight pre-flop, too loose post-flop.

Answer 3:

Tell us if we have the blind structure correct … $1 and $2 in the non-structured game and $2 and$4 in the $4-$8 game. The reason I ask is several Vegas casinos spread a structured double eight game with a $1 and $2 blind structure. I have better success at the 1-4-8-8 games because opponents do not understand the nuances of betting below maximum and they can’t interpret my intentions when I bet $2, $4 or $5 on the turn and / or the river. A good player can “adjust” pot odds with her bets and raises on the flop and turn betting, in addition. Another thing a good player can do is bet $2 or $3 to either discourage or encourage a full bet when he is in the lead (depending on reads of how his opponents will react, his specific holding, and his pre-conceived intention of reaction to a raise). Conversely, a weak player will bet $2 to test the waters and routinely fold when an opponent makes it $10. He will rarely (sometimes never) not use the bet as an enticement. The ore variables, the more skill required and the opportunities for error. Strong players use the necessary skills in deploying non-structured strategy while weak players are presented with greater opportunities to misuse the betting structure.


Tactics for downstream casino games

Two questions I have, one is opinion, and one is strategic… First in Rounder’s, in the scene with the profs (the worst scene in the film) playing poker.  Mike bluffs with the prof’s money into several (5-7) opponents.  Even with a such a nearly perfect read, which is impossible, isn’t it still bad to bluff into that many opponents, because at least one will call you down, assuming they are such bad players. Is this right thinking, or is Mike at
such a “high level” that I can’t understand the amazing act of poker theatrics that I witnessed? Second, let’s say you’ve got a pair of aces in a hold’em game. You see your neighbor to your right fold an Ace. Do you still play your pair of aces, knowing there’s only one card left that will improve you. I am assuming a normal sitch with a couple of callers for sure, not a blind stealing situation. Where would you play your aces, and how. Would you even play them? This might be an obvious (one way or the other) situation.  It happened to me, and I had no clue.  (I played them, fast like normal, but lost to a flush.) Should I have? Please, mathematical and strategic opinions wanted.

 

Answer 1:

1. Its a movie….

2.  Play & raise with them to limit your opponents…AA usually doesn’t need to improve…sometimes when you flop a set of aces it’s the worst thing because it gives someone a draw…a set of aces should rarely be slow played.

Answer 2:

That’s because you’re a poker player. Here’s the thing. From the writer’s point of view, Rounder’s is burdened with aLOTof voiceover narration. Not as much as GoodFellas or Casino, but a lot. What they need for the NON-poker playing audience is a dramatic demonstration of Mike’s talents, which is one of the functions of the judges’ game scene. It SHOWS Mike’s talent in very plain terms to an audience, rather than have Mike TELL them he’s a great player. And it’s not the worst scene in the picture — in terms of dramatic structure, it’s an essential scene. It marks the beginning of Mike’s return to cards, establishes that his relationship with Petrowski (Martin Landau) is not a casual one, leads to the start of the conflict with what’s-her-name (Gretchen Mol).

 

Answer 3:

 

That’s the key to the problem most of us have with all of the “poker” movies. From the infamous straight flush v. aces full in The Cincinnati Kid, to the 4 jacks v. 4 nines in The Sting, to the absurd last hand in Big Hand for the Little Lady, these scenes had to be written so they had meaning for, and an impact on, the non-poker playing audience. I can criticize the depiction of poker in these films and still enjoy them immensely.


Details about online poker games

In a 10-20 game the other night, I had A-9 on the button. A loose player had already called in seat number two, everyone else folded.  What is the right play here?

Answer 1:

Raise or muck. I favor raise, but not if both blinds will always call. It is always wrong to just call with this hand in this situation. BTW, I also would raise if the caller was a tight player so long as he didn’t have a propensity to limp with AA and KK.

 

Answer 2:

If you consider the players in the blinds to be somewhat tight, and you think they may throw away their hands, then raising is a good option. If the blinds are more on the loose side and likely to defend their blinds, you’re not giving up much by just throwing your A-9 away. I don’t consider calling to be much of an option here.

Answer 3:

I would raise because of the button. If the SB and BB fold then this is a fair heads up hand. If the flop is not friendly and the 2nd seat bets you can fold with your position. Even if the SB & BB call the raise you still have position on the loose player in the second seat. If the flop is right you can dominate. If it is wrong… You fold and lose 2 Small Bets. I like A-9 on the button with loose passive players that might fold against a semi-bluff bet after three checks, and the button bets the flop. I either am looking for the flop to hit my hand, or it does not hit anybody and I try for a semi-bluff. If the players are calling stations, I do not like the hand as much depending on the flop. Typically any bets by the button are called by the calling stations and this puts more money in the pot. In the end this makes loose calls pay in pot odds. Here are some questions to ask yourself. Does the SB realize that for 1 1/2 Small Bets he will have a positional disadvantage the rest of the hand. Does the SB adjust accordingly? If so I like the A-9 even less and I muck the card. If not, and the SB will cold call with Q-X suited, then I like the A-9 off-suit for a raise and play it aggressively.. Until somebody looks like they have identified the possible semi-bluff…

 


How to win golden casino games?

The game is 3-5 Texas hold’em w/ a 3 & 5 dollar blind and a straight 5$ bet at all times w/ up to 5 raises. I raise middle position w/ AQo and get heads up w/ the button.
Flop:  29T rainbow
I bet, she calls
Turn:  J
I bet, she calls
River:  5
I check, she checks and her AK beats my AQ Should I have bet on the river? Should I have bet on the river if I thought she would muck her hand at least 1 in 8 times? Should I have bet on the river even though I’m beaten by any legitimate pre-flop calling hand?

 

Answer 1:

I think you should have bet on the river, it was your only chance to win
outright without showdown. I don’t see too many people call all the way with just AK thru three bets no pair. A check on the end doesn’t help you.

Answer 2:

If your local game is like mine, no one will let you get the pot for free-
they will always call, so by checking you saved yourself one big bet. So I guess the answer depends on how well you know your game or your opponent. In tighter games betting on the river will win you the pot. (Or else you run into a check raise!!!)

Answer 3:

The real key in this hand is that would you be getting better than 8-1 odds on what must be considered a pure bluff. At these low limit games people call raises and call bets all the way to the river with the worst pair. In this case A-2 would be a hand that people might, and do call with. It is not about pots but about money. If you think she would have called anyway you risked less money.